I don’t really have much of a life “to do” list, but I had dreamed of surfing a wave at least once. Mission accomplished. On Doheney Beach in Dana Point, CA yesterday I caught my first wave. I was on a board buoyant enough to support a grey whale – 9 foot foam long board. It was an amazing feeling.
The not so good news, I learned I have very sensitive feet. Walking to the beach in bare feet on black top, I noticed my feet felt a little warm. Ends up I got huge heat blisters on both of my feet. Believe it or not, it’s very painful when you try to walk on blistered feet. Note to self: invest in flip flops.